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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. However, situated high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.